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The Basics of Bonsai
Thoughts on Bonsai Care by Bill Choat We are not creators...we are only stewards of what God has created. BONSAI (BONE-sigh): A Japanese word for "plant in a container" - artistically guided by special methods to its natural miniature appearance. It originated in China (called "pen-jing") over 1500 years ago, but the Japanese later influenced bonsai by combining horticulture science with the basic art principles of balance and proportion. In the early years, trees were collected from the wild and only trimmed to maintain their small size. Gradually, the training changed to take new forms and shapes, sometimes unnaturally. Is bonsai a science or an art? ... YES! Where is your favorite place in nature? Maybe it's a brisk hike in the mountains, standing in a grove of cherry blossom trees, lying in leaves or on moss covered ground in the forest, or lounging in your own back yard. A bonsai can convey you to that place. Nature gives us the materials, but the bonsai artist provides the expression. Working with bonsai is not a difficult chore, but instead a pleasant experience of growing with a tree. It is not only raising a "plant in a container," but establishing a relationship with one of God's creations. Many techniques are elementary, but attention and love are required. With bonsai, as in other personal situations, we are often reminded that Nature is NOT a servant of man. When viewing an established bonsai, it may seem overwhelming. Your first bonsai may not appear as one that is very old, but neither will it take you years to attain the ability to "age" a tree. Once patience and understanding of plant care have been accomplished, many of the techniques will materialize and become second nature. What species is a bonsai? OUTDOORS: Some MUST be maintained outside in temperate (cold) climates to obtain dormancy during the winter months: INDOORS: Other species are tropical or sub-tropical and must remain inside during cold temperatures to remain above 55F (13C). A few species will handle temperatures down to 45F (7C), but if you're not sure, don't take the chance. Take a look at some outdoor and indoor bonsai.
BASIC FACTORS IN GROWING 'SUCCESSFUL' BONSAI:INDOOR TREE (tropical and sub-tropical): Keep it away from direct heat sources such as a TV, fireplace, or register. Check the temperature requirements for individual species because some like to be cooler during the night, and some like to be cooler all winter. An indoor tree normally needs a minimum of 5 hours of INDIRECT sunlight daily. When the outside temperature will stay above 55F (13C), it is good to keep it outdoors (in filtered sunlight) to experience fresh air, which assists in disease and insect control. OUTDOOR TREE (temperate): In TEMPERATE climates, many methods may be used to prevent the roots from freezing: In TROPICAL climates, a refrigerator may be used to simulate winter temperatures. Sometimes, keeping it in the home's coldest room is tried, but not necessarily successful to simulate winter dormancy.
Generally, bonsai like to be moist, not soggy. That is, when the top half of the soil becomes dry, it is time to water; and soak it thoroughly. To be sure of the level of moisture in the soil, use a moisture meter or a wooden chopstick which will indicate a water mark. One thorough way to water is the "dishpan method" which is placing the bonsai in a pan with the water level above the soil---when the air bubbles stop appearing, it has obtained sufficient water. On indoor trees, mist-spraying foliage serves to provide humidity and washes away dust. Avoid spraying blooms to prevent wilting. Trays filled with gravel and water (humidity trays) add humidity in the air around the bonsai resting on top of the gravel. Check the moisture requirement for an individual species because it may vary from the general rule. A few species need to be more dry, and others need to be treated differently during certain times of the year. Outdoor bonsai: Spring through early summer -- Water sparingly so not to stimulate overgrowth. Overwatering flowering and fruit trees will slow the blooming process. Summer through fall -- Water gently until water flows out the drain holes---wait two minutes and repeat. Do not water when it is frosty. During the dormancy period, check weekly.
General rules: Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer (fish emulsion is very good if you do not mind the "natural" odor). Pour it over the leaves and let it drip into the soil. Feed monthly during the growing seasons...watering first. DO NOT feed dry soil or sick trees. Check the feeding requirements for your individual species, which may be different than these general feeding suggestions.
A healthy tree resists pests, but check weekly for signs of withering new growth, foliage turning silver-gray, yellow, leaf curling, chewing marks, sawdust, and missing bark. Keep dead leaves and needles off the surface, remove weeds, and trim away dead branches. Alcohol on a Q-tip is an economical and quick treatment, however chemical insecticide sprays are available.
Mix the soil so that is basically half organic and half inorganic. Systemic pesticide, clay, and fertilizer may be mixed with soil. The special bonsai mix "AMBON," is available at American Bonsai Nursery containing medium humus, coarse sand, gravel, and clay. Fill the pot partially with soil, place the tree, add more soil, and work it around roots. To insure that each root is covered with soil, use a chopstick and fingers, watering occasionally, as the soil is pressed firmly.
Repotting refreshes the soil and keeps the tree from being root-bound, follow the individual species instructions for time of year, frequency, and other special notes. A. Break half of the soil away from roots (flowering/fruit - break all the soil away)
BASIC FACTORS IN DESIGNING AND STYLINGThe triangle is one of the traditional bonsai shapes, and the three points wisely represent our relationship to heaven, earth, and our fellow man. Remove the thought that a bonsai has to be old to be good. Apparent age (visual strength and character) is more important than the actual age. Many bonsai have spent years in the wild, or at nurseries, before being obtained by a bonsai enthusiast, then are often in training as "pre-bonsai" for more months or years.Viewing trees in their natural surroundings will remind us of their needs. Does a certain species need to be near water, another to stretch high into the sunlight, or maybe another to be low in the shade? Why do some trees have straight trunks, others curved, some knarled? These are only a few questions to ask yourself when designing a tree for bonsai. Leaves: Most trees produce slightly smaller leaves than normal if new buds are pinched. Full grown leaves may also be removed, but let the leaf stem remain on the tree. Branches and twigs: Cut at about a 45-degree angle. For a tree that flowers on previous year's growth, prune after the blossoms are gone. For a tree that flowers on new growth, prune while it is budding. Wound sealer (Item T602 at American Bonsai Nursery): Use on pencil size or larger branches to stop the wounds from weeping and protect against disease and pests. Needle trees (pine, spruce, etc.): Pinch off part of the new "candles" at branch ends to shorten future growth. Excessive leaves & fruit: Cut out some of the leaves if the foliage is too dense. If the fruit is taking away too much sap and exausting the tree, some of it may be removed.
Front and back: A definite front and back is important. Keep the front open so the trunk outine is defined, and the back is to have foliage that complements and blends with the rest of the tree. Keep the low side branches the longest, front branches short and back ones a little longer. Apex (top point): Let the apex lean slightly forward as if to bow toward the viewer. Roots: The crown (meeting of the trunk and roots) must be seen above the soil. The top of the large roots should be slightly exposed. If there is an unsightly large root, it's best to be in the back.
Do not water for a day before wiring, and keep the tree in the shade for two weeks after wiring. It is good to imitate the natural curves of trees in nature. Use anodized aluminum wire (available at American Bonsai Nursery), and as a general rule, use wire that is a third the size of the branch to be wired. Anchor it to a stronger branch or trunk, wrap it in 45¼ angles, then bend the wire very gently. Do not be in a hurry to get the branch in the desired shape...it can be done over several treatments. Remove the wire before it begins to scar the bark, and if the branch does not remain in position, it may be rewired, using a new path.
Instead of waiting for a tree to age, methods can be used to give it an old appearance. This is rarely done on deciduous trees, but it works well on conifers (juniper, pine, spruce, cedar, fir, etc.). Branches: "Jin" is separating bark from a live or dead branch, Trunk: "Shari" is taking the bark from the trunk, and "saba-miki" is hollowing or splitting a portion of the trunk to give it a 'lightning strike' effect.
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